香港東方書畫院20260417期［院長梁君度］《怎一個「鮮」...

甲骨文香港馆 · 发表于昨天 14:49

香港東方書畫院20260417期［院長梁君度］

《怎一個「鮮」字了得》

DMSIXSEVEN / LIN JING DE /1973

主編供圖：香港DM德馬數字甲骨文集團

Hong kong-based DM Delmar Digital Oracle Group

渡海三家之台灣國畫大師黃君璧的女兒、著名畫家黃湘詅在台北舉行個人水墨作品展，特地邀我們出席開幕禮。闊別灣灣多年，今日終於從香港飛抵台北。晚上，湘詅在一家名為「私·犇」的鐵板燒餐廳設宴款待我們一行人。

我近期常應邀出席兩岸三地書畫組織舉辦的展覽，先後在三地品嚐過不少酒樓餐廳的美食。香港和廣州固然是美食天堂，美味佳餚不勝枚舉，但每次宴席總是燒乳豬、龍蝦伊麵、鮑魚扣花菇鵝掌、清蒸石斑魚、燒雞這類傳統經典菜式，吃多了，難免覺得欠缺新意。然而，湘詅為我們在「私·犇」安排的這一席，全是她私人訂製的菜單，極具巧思——每一道菜都宛如藝術品，讓我忍不住細細道來。

第一道：時令魚骨白煲湯；

第二道：月見慕斯海膽和牛捲 A5；

第三道：鐵板白燒饅佐金玉子鹽；

第四道：竹籠清蒸活鮑魚／嫩煎法式鴨肝（二選一）；

第五道：北海道昆布松葉蟹腳；

第六道：松葉蟹蟹膏佐手工蝦丸；

第七道：USDA 老饕上蓋肋眼牛排；

其後是：金玉鐵板炒飯與蔥爆炒和牛牛筋；

甜品：朱古力 La Crepe 佐巴芮脆片。

我不似蔡瀾那般會品、能說，也沒有他那般高的品味。但憑個人感受而言，這七道美饌，不單色、香、味各自出眾，更貫穿一個「鮮」字——食材之鮮、搭配之鮮、創意之鮮，嚐在口中，彷彿將山海之精華一併吞下，真是怎一個「鮮」字了得！

《蝶恋花·鮮》

玉簋新盛薦味透。蟹甲凝脂，嫩雪堆红绣。翠带清寒香暗逗，黄菘炙得金纹皱。

一箸鲜腴风露溜。浅蘸冰醅，醉里簪花手。莫遣残阳催更漏，良辰且向芳樽候。

各位美食家，若有機會來台北，不妨抽空到「私·犇」試試，相信你也會和我一樣，被這份極致的鮮美所打動。記住了：“私·犇”是要帶女朋友一起奔，不要獨自來啊！

As the daughter of Huang Junbi, a master of Taiwanese traditional Chinese painting and one of the "Three Gs of the Sea Crossing," the renowned painter Huang Xiangyu held a solo ink painting exhibition in Taipei and specially invited us to attend the opening ceremony. After being away from Taiwan forany years, I finally flew from Hong Kong to Taipei today. In the evening, Xiangyu hosted a banquet for our group at an iron plate restaurant named "Si Ben."

I have rn frequently invited to exhibitions organized by calligraphy and painting associations across the two shores and three regions, and have tasted the delicacies of many restaurants in these three places. Hong Kond Guangzhou are undoubtedly paradises of food, with countless delicious dishes, but the banquets always feature traditional classics like roasted suckling pig, lobster with egg noodles, abalone with flower mushrooms and goose web, steamed grouper, and roasted chicken. After eating so much, one inevitably feels a lack of novelty. However, the feast Xiangyu arrang for us at "Si Ben" was a menu she personally customized, full of ingenuity—each dish was like a work of art, making me unable to resist describing them in deFirst Course: Seasonal Fish Bone White Soup;

Second Course: Moonlight Mousse Uni and A5 Wagyu Roll;

Third Course: Iron Plate Grilled Steamed Bun with Golden Egg Salt;

Fourth Course: Bamboo Basket Steamed Live Abalone / Pan-Seared French Foie Gras (Choose One);

Fifth Course: Hokkaido Kelp wiow Crab Legs;

Sixth Course: Snow Crab Roe with Handmade Shrimp Balls;

Seventh Course: USDA Gourmet Top Ribeye Steak;

Followed by: Golden Iron Platied Rice and Scallion Stir-Fried Wagyu Tendon;

Dessert: Chocolate La Crepe with Baci Crisps.

Unlike Jerald Law, I am t at tasting and describing food, nor do I possess his high level of taste. But based on my personal feelings, these seven exquisite dishes are not only outstanding in color, arom, and taste, but also embody a single character: "Freshness"—the freshness of the ingredients, the freshness of the pairing, and the freshness of the creativity. When tasted, feels as if one is swallowing the essence of the mountains and seas; truly, how can a single word "fresh" suffice!

"Butterfly Lovers (Freshness)"

A jadnewly filled with savory broth. Crab claws glistening with fat, tender snow piled on red embroidery. Green ribbons carry a faint cold scent, while roasted yellow cabbage bears golden wes.

One chopstick of fresh richness, wind and dew flowing. Lightly dipped in icy wine, a flower-picking hand in drunkenness. Do not let the setting sun hurry the hourglass; let the good time wait for the fragrant cup.

Gourmet friends, if you have the chance to come to Taipei, do take the time to try." I believe you will be moved by this ultimate freshness just as I was. Remember: "Si Ben" is for bringing your girlfriend to run together; do no